Buying a home is equal parts exhilaration and due diligence. You will review disclosures, measure rooms, and imagine future holidays. You should also, with the same seriousness, investigate pests. They do not show up on listing photos, yet they can quietly undermine framing, contaminate insulation, and leave you with four-figure remediation costs within months of moving in. I have walked buyers through pristine kitchens that hid carpenter ant highways, and I have seen modest ranches with immaculate attics because the seller invested in prevention. The difference was not luck. The buyers who asked the right questions, inspected the right areas, and brought in the right pros closed with confidence.
This checklist is built from field experience, not theory. It will help you spot risks, read inspection reports with discernment, and negotiate fixes that actually solve problems. You will also learn when to involve a licensed pest control company and when a general home inspector is enough. The goal is not to scare you out of a house. The goal is to avoid expensive surprises and to set a baseline for your first year of maintenance.
The unseen costs and why they matter before closing
Pest damage compounds over time. Termites feed slowly, then suddenly, and structural repairs rarely stop at a single stud. Rodents squeeze through a gap the width of your pinky, set up a nest, then chew electrical insulation in one weekend. Roaches will survive your paint job and your move-in deep clean. If you discover issues after closing, you will own both the problem and the stress of coordinating service on a house you are still learning. Sellers, on the other hand, can credit you for treatment, complete repairs under their insurance, or simply give access to a pest control contractor before you take possession. That alone can save you weeks.
Costs vary widely. In many regions, a full termite treatment with trench-and-treat plus localized foam injections falls between 1,200 and 2,500 dollars. Rodent exclusion on a one-story 1,800-square-foot home often runs 600 to 1,500 dollars depending on roof complexity. Bat remediation can climb to 2,000 to 5,000 dollars when guano cleanup and attic sealing are involved. These numbers are not scare tactics, they are common invoices. Pre-closing leverage helps ensure those invoices are not yours.
Start with the paper trail
Before you pick up a flashlight, gather documents. Sellers often disclose pest history, sometimes in vague terms. Read the disclosure forms and look for any mention of wood-destroying organisms, past infestations, warranties, or “annual treatments.” Many states require a wood-destroying organism report, often called an NPMA-33 or similar. Mortgage lenders, especially on VA loans, may require it. Ask to see the full report, not just the summary page.
Pay attention to warranties and whether they are transferable. Some termite bonds transfer for a small fee and require an annual renewal. Others lapse at closing. A transferable bond with repair coverage is worth real money. I have negotiated credits equal to three years of renewals because the seller’s bond could be transferred if the buyer paid the renewal at closing. If the seller cannot produce documentation, treat any claims of “routine pest control” as unverified.
Service invoices matter as well. A paid invoice from a pest control service is not the same as a targeted treatment plan. Look for specificity. You want to see product names, application areas, and follow-up dates. “Sprayed perimeter” is not reassurance if the problem was subterranean termites. If you see bait stations in the yard, ask for the service map and last inspection date. Stations without monitoring data are lawn ornaments.
Inspectors, specialists, and where each one fits
A good home inspector will flag conditions conducive to pests: wood-to-soil contact, high moisture, missing screens, unsealed utility penetrations. Some inspectors are licensed to conduct wood-destroying insect inspections. Even then, generalists are time-limited. They will not deconstruct a crawl space or pull back attic insulation. If the house shows any signs of pests in the disclosures or during your walk-through, budget for a specialized inspection by a licensed exterminator service focused on the target issue.
Use a pest control company with local track records rather than the cheapest quote. Ask how they diagnose before they treat. You want someone who is comfortable with moisture meters, borescopes, and, when necessary, cutting a small access panel in a closet ceiling to examine a void. Reputable providers will explain options and likely outcomes without guaranteeing miracles. If the contractor pushes a one-size-fits-all “quarterly spray” as the solution to termites, keep looking.
What to look for on your own walk-through
You do not need to be an exterminator to catch half the problems that later show up on reports. Bring a bright flashlight and a notepad. Slow down near plumbing chases, along baseboards, under sinks, and around exterior transitions like where siding meets the foundation. Trust your nose. There is a distinct, sweetish odor to heavy roach infestations and a musky smell in areas where rodents are active.
Check for droppings that tell a story. Mouse droppings are small, rice-shaped, and often accumulate along walls or under stoves. Rat droppings are larger and blunt. Roach droppings look like pepper in the corners of cabinets or around hinge wells. Termites leave frass that resembles sand or coffee grounds, especially with drywood species. Carpenter ants leave sawdust-like frass with insect parts. You will not become a taxonomist overnight, but any droppings in quantity warrant a specialist.
Scan for moisture. Stained baseboards, swollen door frames, or rippled vinyl flooring near bathrooms can indicate leaks. Moisture attracts pests, and pests destroy damp wood faster. A 20-dollar pinless moisture meter from a hardware store is cheap insurance. If it spikes around exterior walls, you may be looking at a drainage or flashing issue that doubles as an insect invitation.
The attic and roofline, where animals announce themselves
If it is safe and permitted, look in the attic. Wear a mask. You are checking for disturbed insulation, flattened runways, and droppings along the edges of rafters. Listen for scratching near dusk or dawn if you have access during those hours. A few droppings may be historical. Piles, stains, or a strong ammonia smell point to active rodents or, in some regions, bats. Bats are protected in many states, which affects timing and methods for removal. Ask a pest control contractor who understands local laws, because an illegal exclusion can delay closing and risk fines.
Outside, inspect soffit vents, gable vents, and where the roof intersects with siding. Look for gnaw marks on fascia board, torn screens, and lifted shingles at the eaves. A classic entry point is the gap where a garage roof meets the main house. Another is the conduit opening for an HVAC line set if the installer failed to seal it with mortar or collar foam. Birds will nest in dryer vents or bathroom exhausts without proper covers. I once found a starling nest that filled an eight-foot duct, which explained the buyer’s note that “the hall bath fan is loud and weak.”
Crawl spaces and foundations, the termite and moisture zone
If the home has a crawl https://elliottzihs154.lucialpiazzale.com/integrated-pest-management-a-smarter-approach-to-pest-control space, this is where deals are saved or sunk. Conditions under the house are usually worse than inside, and that is the point. Look for standing water, damp soil, fallen insulation, and detached vapor barriers. Dirt touching the bottom of floor joists is a red flag. Termite shelter tubes are mud highways that climb from soil to wood, sometimes no thicker than a pencil. They can be on the inside of the foundation wall or on piers. Break one and you may see worker termites, but do not assume absence of visible insects equals absence of colony.
Ventilation and grading matter. Splashed mud on foundation walls often means gutters are overflowing or downspouts dump at the base. That repeated wetting keeps the soil damp and friendly to subterranean termites. Wood debris left in the crawl space provides a starter buffet. Professional pest control service technicians spend as much time talking about moisture control as they do about chemicals because the former makes the latter effective.
Basements have their own signs. Efflorescence on masonry, musty odor, or flaking paint suggests chronic moisture, which supports pillbugs, centipedes, and roaches. You may not fear those arthropods, but their presence in quantity signals the environment is right for larger, costlier pests.
Siding, decks, and everything that touches soil
Exterior cladding carries clues. Stucco or EIFS systems that run below grade hide termite activity. Wood siding with peeling paint near grade line rots and invites carpenter ants. Vinyl siding is not a seal, it is a shell, and insects or mice can travel behind it. Look at the lowest course and at penetrations for hose bibs, cable lines, and dryer vents. A ¼ inch gap is an open door to a mouse. Backer rod with high-quality sealant is a simple fix, and one you can request as part of repairs.
Decks and porches frequently miss flashing. Water then runs back toward the house, wetting rim joists. Tap suspect areas with the handle of your screwdriver. Hollow sounds or soft spots mean rot. Termites and ants do not create rot, but they exploit it. Support posts set directly in soil are a highway. Ideally, posts sit on concrete piers with metal post bases. If the deck ledger secures directly to stucco without a proper standoff and flashing, expect trouble and budget for correction.
Kitchen and bath, small leaks that grow problems
Cabinets hide pipe penetrations large enough for a rat to pass without scraping its whiskers. Many builders cut oversize holes for speed. Look for gaps around drains and supply lines, and check the back corners of sink bases for frass or droppings. Garbage disposals that leak will create a rot patch large enough to attract roaches within weeks. Caulking around tubs and showers is not just cosmetic. Water that escapes behind tile invites ants to nest in wall voids. If you see ants in a bathroom in winter, assume there is a moisture source behind the wall.
Behind toilets, trace water lines down to the floor. Stains or softened drywall baseboards signal a slow leak. Lift a corner of the toilet tank lid and look for insect carcasses. It is a strange habit, but you will be surprised how many dead gnats and roaches collect there, and it tells you something about general housekeeping and prior pest activity.
When a seller says it was “just one mouse”
Isolated sightings happen. A mouse can enter during a cold snap, be trapped, and the house can remain pest-free afterward. The key is whether conducive conditions remain. If you see an intact exclusion barrier on the garage door bottom, sealed penetrations, and tidy storage off the floor, a one-mouse story might be believable. If the garage has birdseed in open bags, the weatherstripping shows chew marks, and there is daylight under the side door, assume the problem is active and recurring.
The same applies to “a few ants in spring.” Seasonal ant activity peaks with moisture and temperature changes. A cluster near a kitchen window in April may be normal, but ants inside interior walls in January are rarely a fluke. Ask for a licensed inspection. If the seller balks, that is information.
Reading the wood-destroying organism report intelligently
WDO reports can read like a new language. They distinguish between active infestation, inactive old damage, and conducive conditions. Old damage does not require treatment, yet it matters if the structural member is compromised. Ask the pest control contractor to show you the area and to estimate the portion of the wood that is still sound. A sill plate with 15 percent loss may be fine if loads are light, but a joist with 30 percent loss under a tub needs reinforcement.
Look at the scope of recommended treatment. Localized spot treatments are appropriate for isolated drywood termite galleries in trim, but subterranean termites typically require a continuous soil treatment or an established baiting program. See if the estimate includes drilling through slabs along interior walls, which can be necessary in slab-on-grade construction. If a report simply notes activity and recommends “general treatment,” press for specifics. Product choice, application method, and follow-up intervals affect outcomes and costs.
Negotiating repairs and credits without creating stalemates
You have leverage before closing. Use it to secure solutions that last. There are several ways to structure pest-related resolutions. You can ask the seller to complete treatment and repairs before closing, to escrow funds for post-closing work, or to credit you at closing for the cost of treatment and necessary exclusion. Escrows are useful when treatment timing conflicts with closing, for instance with bat exclusions restricted during maternity season. Credits give you control to choose your own exterminator company and to oversee quality.
Be clear on scope in writing. If the seller hires a pest control service, require a detailed invoice and a transferable warranty where available. If structural repairs are needed, specify that repairs should follow the contractor’s recommendations, not surface-level patches. I have seen sellers replace a section of trim but ignore the flashing failure that caused the rot, which only guarantees a repeat.
Time matters. Termite treatments are most effective when wood moisture is controlled and leaks are fixed. If you rush to treat while gutters still dump at the foundation, you will pay to fix the context later. A good pest control contractor will tell you what to fix first. Put that sequence into your negotiation.
Regional nuances and seasonal timing
Pest pressure is not uniform. In the Southeast and Gulf Coast, subterranean termites are relentless, and bait systems are common. In the Southwest, drywood termites call for a different strategy, sometimes up to whole-structure fumigation. In the Northeast and Midwest, carpenter ants, cluster flies, and mice dominate older housing stock, with bats common near wooded lots. In the Pacific Northwest, moisture ants and wood decay fungi share the stage.
Season changes what you see. Winter inspections may miss flying ant swarms but reveal rodent entry points more clearly when vegetation dies back. Spring shows ant activity, while late summer can bring wasp nests into view along eaves. Do not assume absence in January equals safety in May. If timing is off, negotiate for a follow-up inspection window with the exterminator service after you move in.
New construction is not immune
Brand-new homes can have pest issues from day one. Construction debris left in crawl spaces feeds termites. Grading that slopes toward the slab invites moisture and pests. Trades leave unsealed penetrations, especially at hose bibs, gas lines, and cable conduits. I have found open weep holes stuffed with mortar where brick masons got sloppy, eliminating drainage and giving ants a sheltered path.
Ask for a final pest-focused walkthrough before your builder’s warranty clock starts. Verify that landscape mulch is pulled back from the foundation at least 4 to 6 inches and kept shallow. Deep mulch against siding is a welcome mat. Request screens on all attic vents and code-compliant vent covers on bath and dryer exhausts. A 30-dollar vent hood now is cheaper than a bird removal later.
Insurance, warranties, and what they really cover
Homeowners insurance rarely pays for pest damage. Most policies exclude insects and rodents as maintenance issues. If you find sudden structural failure tied to a hidden leak, you might argue coverage, but do not count on it. Termite bonds and service warranties vary. Some cover re-treatment only, others include repair up to a cap. Read the fine print. A re-treatment warranty is not useless, but it will not pay for the new subfloor under your bathroom. If a seller claims a “lifetime warranty,” confirm transfer terms and any inspection requirements. Missed annual inspections can void coverage.
The two-part pre-closing pest checklist you can actually use
This is the field-tested list I hand to buyers on the day we tour with a pest lens. Keep it on your phone, walk the house, and mark anything you cannot verify.
- Documentation: WDO/termite report in hand, service invoices with specifics, transferable warranties or bonds, and proof of last bait station inspection if present. Moisture and access: No standing water in crawl space, intact vapor barrier, functioning gutters and downspouts extended away from foundation, caulk around wet areas intact. Structure and envelope: No wood-to-soil contact, no termite tubes on foundation or piers, sealed utility penetrations, intact door sweeps and window screens, vent covers on all exhausts. Attic and roofline: No droppings or disturbed insulation indicating active rodents, screened gable and soffit vents, no obvious gnaw marks on fascia, and no daylight at roof-to-wall gaps. Interior signs: No significant droppings, frass, or live insects in cabinets and closets, no swollen baseboards or soft spots near baths and kitchens, and no persistent musty or ammonia odors.
Use this to decide where to bring in a specialist and what to negotiate.
After the offer is accepted: sequence your due diligence
Your contract clock starts ticking the day you go under contract. Book the general home inspection first, then immediately schedule the exterminator company for a WDO or targeted inspection based on suspected issues. Share the home inspector’s moisture readings with the pest pro; good ones appreciate context. If both inspections point to a specific problem, bring in the related trade as needed. For example, a termite report that cites chronic moisture by the front stoop should trigger a visit from a masonry or waterproofing contractor to address drainage and flashing.
Hold a short call with your agent to plan negotiation strategy. If you prefer a credit, ask your pest control contractor to write an estimate with line items and a reasonable contingency range. Sellers are more comfortable with documentation than a round number. If you want repairs completed before closing, set a deadline that allows for follow-up verification and, if needed, correction.
What a good service plan looks like once you own the home
Prevention after closing is not glamorous. It is effective. A sensible plan includes exterior perimeter inspection every quarter or each season, a check of attic and crawl space twice a year, and immediate sealing of any new gaps after contractors do work. If you add cable, replace an HVAC system, or upgrade plumbing, verify penetrations are sealed. Maintain trimmed vegetation at least 12 inches from the house, clear mulch from the foundation, and keep firewood off the ground and away from exterior walls.
Work with a pest control service that offers inspection-forward visits rather than automatic sprays at every stop. The best techs solve entry points and moisture first, then apply targeted treatments. For termites in endemic regions, a monitored bait system or a soil treatment with documented annual checks is worth the subscription. For rodents, a combination of sealing and strategically placed traps inside sealed stations is superior to loose poison that can lead to dead-animal odor in walls.
Red flags that should change your approach or your offer
Some houses are worth the fight, some are not. If you see multiple structural members with active termite damage, recurring moisture the seller refuses to correct, or a history of attic wildlife despite prior exclusions, you must factor that into price and timeline. If a seller denies access for a pest inspection, that is information too. In one case, a buyer of mine walked away after we found live termites in a garage expansion joint and the seller insisted it was “just the slab.” We found a slightly smaller home two weeks later that appraised clean and needed no pest work the first year. The money we saved on treatments paid for a patio.
Final pass before you release contingencies
Schedule a brief re-inspection of any treated areas. Ask the pest control contractor to verify completion and to record baseline conditions. Take photos where bait stations sit and where any exclusion work was done. Store warranties and service plans with your closing documents and put renewal dates on your calendar. This is not busywork. Systems maintained from day one give you leverage if something fails, and they prevent small problems from restarting.
A home without pests is not an accident. It reflects a series of small, informed decisions and the occasional well-timed visit from an experienced exterminator. Use your pre-closing window to gather facts, engage the right people, and set your future self up for fewer headaches. The house will thank you in ways you cannot see, year after year.
Clements Pest Control Services Inc
Address: 8600 Commodity Cir Suite 159, Orlando, FL 32819
Phone: (407) 277-7378
Website: https://www.clementspestcontrol.com/central-florida